Slow black bean chili with dark chocolate

This black bean chili takes a few hours, but almost all of that time it is bubbling quietly on its own while the kitchen fills with smoke, spice and chocolate. Yes, chocolate: a small square of dark chocolate stirred in at the end is the secret, adding depth rather than sweetness. It is the dish I cook for friends on cold weekends, and it is even better the next day.

Dried beans or tinned?

Dried beans give a better texture and a richer sauce, because the cooking liquid thickens the chili. But they need soaking overnight and an extra hour of cooking. Tinned beans work well too, and they turn this into an afternoon recipe rather than a weekend project. I use tinned when I am busy and do not feel guilty about it.